I'm sure its quite simple, but I keep messing it up! Those are my downfall… Loving the pattern!!! I am fairly new to this type of knitting so please excute my lack of knowledge. Is it just me or is there something wrong with the pattern? I think people are just starting from the same color in two different cakes when making each of the hexagons.
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Hi Becky, These are the two rows: K to 2 sts before m, ssk, work Lace Pattern 2 between markers, k2tog, k to 3 sts before m, ssk, k2, k2tog 2X, k to 2 sts before m, ssk, work Lace Pattern 2 between markers, k2tog, k to end. K5, p to last 5 sts, k5 I'm not sure what you're doing LP2 is only worked between the front shoulder markers, so if you're working multiple repeats you're doing something wrong Sorry not to be more helpful!
For a lovely pattern and the help along the way! Will be putting photos up on my blog and Ravelry very soon - I hope I have done it justice for you! Thanks again - love it: Hi,I'm working away on this gorgeous cardi of yours but have come to a grinding halt!
When you say "work these two rows until you have 83 stitches" I don't know what you mean. You answer this question in another comment but the first row of the two you mention comprises of ten rows of lace pattern 2 which means I cant be decreasing?? What am I missing? Am I only supposed to continue with row 9 of the lace pattern then a purl row?
Sorry but it didnt make sense to me. Thanks for the help! Hi Clare, Nope, you work whatever row of Lace Pattern 2 is next, but you're decreasing around that lace section--it stays between stitch markers. Oh thanks so much Nikki! I had another look last night as thought so but had to check as frogging Koigu was not going to be any fun ;. I just finished one in bleu - minus the lace pattern at the bottom, we don't know yet if we are having a boy or a girl -, and with a different gauge to get a size 12 months.
Thank you much, it's a wonderful pattern, I had no problem following it. It's fun to knit and absolutely gorgeous. I can't wait to see it on my little one: Oh my, that's beautiful! I'm a Hawaiian living in northern Illinois, and I absolutely must knit this pattern!!! I'll find a baby to stick it on later: This is the most beautiful baby sweater that I've come across.
I definitely will make this one, thank you so much for sharing. My newborn great-niece will be wearing this at her mother's wedding. Thank you for sharing this pattern and allowing it to be such a special part of our lives too. Pics on Ravelry soon! I saw this sweater in pink on a bulletin board in my LYS today and had to have it. And, of corse, some nice tonal green Shibui.
Thank you so much for sharing your talent. Repeat the last 8 rows 2X more, then work even until piece measures 4. Could you please lemme know what the 2x would mean and the rest of the instructions? Hi Swetha, The 2X means two times--so work everything in bold below two more times. K to 3 sts before m, ssk, k2, k2tog 2X, k to end Work 7 rows even. Work even means to work in stockinette stitch for 4. Hi, I've been working on this and am a little confused by the measuring.
In the sleeves you say, after working all of the initial rows that I should continue even until the piece measures 4. Have I done something wrong? Can u pls let me know how i shud start knitting the sleeve after he marker on the body?? Also when do i stitch the sleeve sides? Hi Swetha, I'm not sure how to describe it any more clearly than how it is written in the pattern, or has been discussed in the comments previously.
I would suggest simply starting on the yoke and following the instructions as closely as you can--it's simple enough once you get started; the issue is with the tightness of the needles--many people slip the sleeve stitches onto two dpns to give them some ease. As the pattern states, you sew up the sleeves after finishing the yoke. I used your pattern to knit "coming home outfits" for my twin girls last fall. It was very meaningful to me as well because my husband and I were married in Hawaii and wore maile leis.
I want to thank you for sharing this pattern. The sweaters will be a treasured item to save for them. I'm having trouble adding the sleeves, I followed the pattern, but after I added the first sleeve, my needles were too tight to keep knitting. I know you said you can bind off some stitches to give more room, but if I do that, how do I continue with the pattern? Thanks for your help! Well, you'll need to rip back a bit. You would need to BO stitches at each end of the sleeves just 2 or 3 on each side , and then BO either 4 or 6 stitches at the sleeve join in the body.
I'm sure that sounds tricky--if it were me, I would stick with what you have. I'd slide some of your sleeve stitches onto a couple of dpns, which will give you some room to work with. So far I am loving this pattern but I am a bit confused. Repeat the last two rows until Lace Pattern 1 has been completed. K5, p to last 5 sts, k5 is this done on the right side bc thats how i did it k33, pm, k65, pm, k33 I am assuming this is meant to be knit on the right side but I am wrong side based on the above tks.
Hi Rachel, The purl stitches are always on the wrong side--that should clarify things! So the place marker row is a Right Side row. Or else it dosent work right I am going to ML the sleeve on rather then knitting 2 and grafting them on so I wanted to double check about st counts--there are 46st for the sleeves or is it far less when you attach them?
This is beautiful, and an easy knit. However, I had the same question another knitter did whether the sleeves were knit in the round or flat. You responded the pattern indicates they are knitted flat. Based on the 'knit 10 rows' in the beginning of the sleeves yet they are clearly garter stitch edged, yes. But I was never able to find a place where 'stitch sleeve seam' is indicated.
That seems obvious, but It's 46 stitches for magic loop, Rachel, so you should be fine. You seam the sleeves at the very end--they are written to be knit flat. Really stupid question--when you start the yoke, are the sleeves on the needles with it -- sleeve, yoke, sleeve.
Or, are the sleeves on separate needles, and you knit them on from those? I've been working on it for months now and have knit and re-knit it again and again but I cannot get the lace to look how it does it the pictures. I have followed the instructions exactly and am sure that I have done everything right and yet only half of the lace pattern works. The left side just does not look right. I plan to continue because it still looks alright but I'm wondering if anyone has finished this sweater looking exactly like it is supposed to?
Is it just me or is there something wrong with the pattern? Hi there, I'm not sure what's going on--the sweater should be working out for you! I'm sorry it's been so frustrating; you could try explaining the problem to me, or you could go to http: I am very anxious to get at this pattern but have already hit a road block.
I am fairly new to this type of knitting so please excute my lack of knowledge. When the Lace Pattern 1 is worked it states: K5, work Lace Pattern 1to last 5 sts,K5. If I follow what it says I don't have enough stitch. Also, for row 3 of the same lace pattern would there also be K5 at the beginning and end of the row? I'd really appreciate your help. For the Lace Pattern 1 - for Row 2 and all even it says to purl.
Should the first and last 5 stitches be knit? Love the pattern and hope I can get it complete before the baby shower. Hi there, I'm not sure where your trouble is--perhaps you didn't cast on the right number of stitches?
Yes, you do knit the 5 edge stitches on either side, throughout the sweater. Hi there, I'm sorry to ask you to explain this again, but when you say, "work 7 rows even" or "in plain stockinette", do you mean: Thanks for your help!! Thank you for sharing such a beautiful and personal pattern. I have knitted it twice so far, both in red and I plan on using it again soon.
Hi Shelby, Stockinette stitch is knit all on one side, and purl all on the other. So, as you say: I love the pattern I thinks it beautiful but your instructions are complicated as am always trying to second guess the instructions.
It wouldn't hurt to number your rows. For example button holes.. Alright, I'm having an issue with Lace Pattern 1. After doing Row 1, I ended up with 11 sts. Trust me, I've ripped it all out, started from square one and counted sts. Is there a common misstep I'm making here?
Awesome sweater, just my obsession right now! I don't know what's going on, but it sounds to me like you're having a mental block Knit that bit in stockinette--a lot of knitters prefer it that way anyway, I've noticed. Just go around the problem rather than trying force your way through it. Does " K to 3 sts before m, ssk, k2, k2tog 2X" mean to work the sequence in parentheses two times, then knit the rest of the row? That's how I initally understood it.
Making my second of these gorgeous cardis. The first was in a very pretty lilac and the second is in a light green for a little girl who's very likely to have pretty red hair. SSK is slip, slip, knit--you slip two stitches onto your right hand needle, and then insert your left needle into the back of those stiches, and knit them together.
There are good tutorials online--just do a google search. Dear Nikki, Love the pattern but there are obviously differences between English and American patterns! Would you please tell me what "skp" means.
Thanks Sue in Twickenham, UK. You slip the next stitch on the left needle to your right hand needle.
Then knit the next stitch, and pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch--one stitch decreased. Hi Nikki, wanted to say i love your sweater, so much so i have started one myself. However, i am confused at the lace 1 pattern. Am I correct at knitting k5, p to last 5, k5 and then the next row I k5, work in lace pattern to last 5, k5?
The trouble I run into is with the row2 and even rows of the lace pattern. Can you tell me what I am doing wrong? Sorry if that sounds oonfusing. This is my first attempt at a lace sweater. Hi there, Row 2 and all even numbered rows are straight up purled--so on your wrong side, purl across keeping the 5 garter edge stitches, of course.
That should keep it in stockinette, not garter. Hi Nikki, I just joined the sleeves to start the yoke, but it seems that i have a stitch count problem. There is a difference of 2 stiches in the sleeves stich count between the lace markers and the back markers. One of my back marker is located in the sleeve and the other one is in the back part so the back rAgalans are not quite centered.
Shouldn't these markers be placed at the sleeves joints? Is this normal or did I do something wrong? It seems that the shift comes in the next RS row, when the decreases are done 3 sts before marker But after the next RS row, I have: Could you please explain me what I'm doing wrong? Thank you in advance.
Well, it seems like you aren't working the lace pattern between your markers? Or are you working them in both the back and the front? They are only supposed to be in the front. It works like this: The raglan decreases are broken up by the lace pattern in front, but not in back, which can make it feel off-centered. It isn't--The stitch counts are evenly broken up, it's just that the division between the raglan decreases is larger in front than in back, if that makes sense.
I hope this helps! Perhaps try bringing the pattern into your lys? Thanks for the informations, but I only knit the lace parts within the front raglans, ans what I called "joint" is only the place where the sleeves joined the back part. I think that the problem came from the fact that in the fist row the markers are placed, within the back raglans in this way: It seems to me that modifind this row in: K to 2 sts before m, ssk, work Lace Pattern 2 between markers, k2tog, k to 2 sts before m, ssk, k2, k2tog 2X, k to 2 sts before m, ssk, work Lace Pattern 2 between markers, k2tog, k to end, will result in stitch counts evenly broken up and centered raglans.
Markers will remain placed like this within the raglans: I hope this make sense and I apologize for my english I'm French. Tanks for your patience and for sharing with us a so nice pattern! As I've knit it up it works out fine--the instructions specify spacing the decreases away from the marker, not right at the joint as you specify--but if it's not working out for you, absolutely change it!
After some researches on Ravelry, it appears that several people experienced the same problem. It is symetric and the decreases are away from the joint. I made this for my youngest granddaughter a few months ago. It is a beautiful pattern. I'd like to knit a similar one with the same yarn for her 3 yr old big sister.
Do you know of a pattern I can use? Thank you for this pattern, I have translated it into french, I can send you the french version or post it on ravlery if you want. Hi Caroline, It's actually already available in French and on Ravelry here: Thank you so much for making and sharing this super-cute pattern!
I've hade it in my queue on Ravelry for at least a year, an this weekend i finally knitted it. And i love it! When you're attaching the sleeves, are you working all the sleeve stitches in a together at once, or are there stitches from the body interspersed?
I attached my first sleeve and it's stretching the heck out of the stitches in the body. I don't know if this is right and I should keep going, or if I should rip out now Hi Ruth, I wish I could tell you that it's not supposed to stretch like that, but in fact, it is--that's the "painful" I referred to.
You're doing everything exactly right, and it will work itself out, but though this feels wrong, it is right. Hi Nikki, Firstly, thanks for giving us a pattern for such a pretty cardigan. I can't wait till it's all knitted up! I am a bit stuck at the moment though on this bit: K to 3 sts before m, ssk, k2, k2tog 2X, k to end I knitted to 3 stitches before the marker, but 3 stitches is not enough to do ssk, k2, k2tog?
Secondly, I presume that 2x means that after you complete the stuff in the brackets, you knit to 3 stitches before the next marker ie. This would not be symmetrical though, would it?? Any help would be muchly appreciated! Am a bit stuck for now I'm at the same point as Carmillia and am hoping someone could please explain what you mean by K to 3 sts before m, ssk, k2, k2tog 2X, k to end. Am I to move the marker? Kind of obvious but I just wanted to make sure it will work out.
Thanks for the clarification. But I guess it was kind of obvious and sometimes you have to go with your gut feeling and just go with it. Perfect for this Chicago weather we have been having. I am just about to finish it in time for my niece I am not quite sure about the instructions at the end: K1 row, decreasing 6 sts evenly spaced.
Can you break it down for me? I am not quite sure if you mean decrease 3 sts at each end to make it 6 sts total. I didn't specify because it doesn't need to be perfect--k 5 sts, decrease, k6 sts decrease, k 4 sts, decrease, etc until you've done 6 decreases, and then k to the end. These sleeves are not knit in the round? You just sew them together from the arm pit? They certainly could be knit in the round, but as the pattern is written, the sleeves are sewn up afterward.
When you say until piece messures 4,5 inches, what do you mean, is this messure from beginning? When I had finished this body decreace for third time my piece messured 5 inches already. Should I then stop knitting the body and have it 5 inches and begin on the sleeves? If your row gauge is longer than mine, don't worry about it--just follow the pattern and do all the body decreases; the sweater may hang down a little farther on the hips, but it'll fit better in the long run.
Hi Nikki, Thank you for the beautiful pattern. I have got up close to putting the stiches on the holder from the body; however the length of my knitting is 26 inches.. IS this way too big? That's much, much longer than mine--what is your row gauge? I think you must have repeated the pattern a few too many times--that's five times my length! I actually meant the actual circumference length! It just seems very wide ; having said that I'm not too sure what size babies are as this is my first!
Oh, that makes much more sense! And no, you're right where you're supposed to be inches is perfect! Thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly; youre very kind. I'll keep on going so! Thanks a million, elaine. It would make it easier to hook body and sleeves togethe if you specified a circular needle with a rather long cable perhaps 32" or even more?
You could then indicate that the painful tightness could be overcome with "magical loop" knitting. Your instructions were perfectly clear though you forgot to tell us to remove the second side-seam marker and i enjoyed the challenge of lace knitting inside the two raglan lines.
Thanks for sharing your talents with us! Hi Nikki, I want to join the rest of the posters here and truly thank you for sharing this pattern. It is really beautiful and your a talented designer!
I have a question as I'm about to begin LP2 and I have read through all of the previous posts and can't seem to find the answer. I read n reread all ur beautiful patterns. But this Campfire cardigan is a must have 4 me. I thank u so much 4 thinking of me when u fixed the sleves to fit me. N i love the hoodie. Again love ur work.
N u r so kind to me n others. Thanks for your purchase, Yolanda. Hi Jess, I am working on my 2nd hexagon right now and loving the pattern! I will be trying it on for fit shortly and am trying to figure out from your pictures if the sweater needs to meet in the front while being worn. Thanks for your help. It is such a fun pattern!! I love the part of trying it on for the first time, even if just in pieces. The wider you make it in the front, the wider the sleeves will be, which is why I opted to keep it a little more open in the front.
I made a single crochet band all the way around the front opening, including the hood , and sewed on buttons. I just love the idea of toggle buttons! I might have to try that myself! Love ALL of your patterns. Sweaters can be a big undertaking for sure. You might also like my recent Stonewash Shrug pattern.
Well, I crochet a lot. It really goes pretty quickly as far as sweater patterns are concerned because the openness of the granny stitch means fewer actual stitches to make. Hello it is not, unless I am missing something. I would really like to make this sweater. Part 1 of the free pattern is directly above this comment area. All three portions are free. I need to apologize, for my saying that the pattern was not free. I found pt 1 and perusing the site a little further.
Please accept my apology. I will definitely be making this for my Daughter. I will probably print it out so that I do not have to go back and forth to the computer for details. Thank you so much for your note. I made the largest size and the sleeves are just way too wide. I made the largest size option from the pattern, with the narrower sleeve option, but the part of the sleeve formed by the hexagon is too wide.
Hopefully this will give the larger chest size, but with narrower sleeves. Will let you know how it turns out! My question is if you stitch the shoulders together all the way how is there room for your neck? Am I missing something but seems the front sections would tend to rub the neck.
The way the hood drapes backward opens the cardigan a bit and allows room for your neck. I know you are using an L hook and 4 weight yarn for this but I was wondering if I can use a smaller hook and 3 weight yarn.
I have a bunch of Lion Brand Mandala yarn and would love to do this with that. Also I have issues using larger size hooks. I just saw someone who made this with Mandala and it was stunning! You can def size down your hook and just add a few rows to your hexagons, sweater bottom and sleeves if you feel like you need them. Yup, an L is what I used. This yarn has a bit of a halo because it looks sort of like roving yarn. I paid and downloaded the PDF of campfire cardigan but had to restart computer.
It might be in your download folder on your computer. Is there a video showing how to stitch together? I have done it before but I wanted to compare styles. Also is there a video showing how to add hood? Those are my downfall… Loving the pattern!!! Have you checked out Part 3 of the pattern yet? I do have a photo in there showing how the hood is worked, which might be helpful. As far as stitching it together, I used the mattress stitch and Moogly has a great video tutorial.
Then make a second one the same size. Ive never been good at reading patterns ive always been good at watching and learning. I really want to try and make this but its all like a foriegn language to me is there by chance any video tutorials on this and others you can link me with?
I dont know if this question has been asked but where in the pattern does is suggest where to stop when doing the matress stitch when sewing the sleeve together. I see vaugly in the picture when using the stitch marker but its not exsplained. I can see how that might be confusing in the pattern. I will update it to include more details. You actually just sew across the entire hexagon edge both for the back and the sleeves. Hi, I purchased the pattern yesterday but I am not good with written patterns.
I would love that! Thanks so much for your purchase. Thanks for the feedback! Could you tell me the meaurements of the original hexagon please?
I could work the rest out from there! I have just recently finished part 1. I did do a post on my blog about it and put a picture there. This would make a wonderful present for s loved one! I wish sharing a photo was an option too.
If you use Instagram, you can always tag me in your photo there makeanddocrew. Will you direct me to it? I have the length added to the bottom. So glad that you have shared this! I love the look of this cardigan and want to give it a go. What size hook do I need to use for it? I used an L. I was wondering if this can be made with a solid hexagon. I think it could. How do you attach the new yarn in the 3chain space?
My favorite way of attaching new yarn is to tie a slip knot on the hook, then enter the hook in the ch3sp, yarn over and pull the yarn through. Then the yarn is attached and you can proceed with the pattern. Yes, I think so! I have made part one with a 7mm hook. I did the smallest size and the sleeves still seem really wide. What is the smallest size hook I can make this with without is being too small? I need it to be the largest size but the sleeves are way too wide.
There are some ideas there that might be useful. I have been asked to make this sweater for a friend of a friend who has a bust size of I am awful at adjusting patterns. Could you please give me some help as to how big I need to make the hexagons so I continue with the sweater?
And once I make the hexagons larger all I really have to do is make the sleeves longer and the body of the sweater longer, correct. You could always ask your friend to have someone measure from her spine to about her nipple line, or a little further to the center of her body.
Jess — I am struggling with the sleeve. The first round seems okay but I am struggling at the end of round one after the slip stitch into the top of the beginning double crochet to join. Where am I slip stitching? I have 3 single double crochets and spaces and it looks odd to me.
The two slip stitches to the end of the cluster are there to move your yarn over so that the beginning chains of the next round are starting in a space instead of right on top of the cluster you just slip stitched into to join.
Does that make any sense? I think I must have done something wrong on the first round then. I attached color A to the middle of the sleeve cluster then chained 3 and then 1 dc in the next space, so that means there is no cluster when I come back around to join that first row, just that 1 dc in the middle of the cluster.
I think this is where I am misunderstanding given your instructions in your comment. Or does it just look strange? Yes, you could def make it without a hood! I will make another.. I love those projects I can finish in a weekend! I recently purchased the pattern and was going to use Caron Simply Soft yarn as I can not find the New Basic near me.
Do you think this will work or will it stretch too much and not hold the shape? I think it will probably work. I used your lovely pattern as a reference for my own hexagonal cardigan!
Thank you so much for sharing! Jess and Ladies, I am positive I am the only one to ever make this mistake…. It did not fold into an L. After much stomping around and gnashing of teeth I realized it was supposed to have 6 sides. So…I am froggin it and starting over…determined to make it.
I hope you all find this funny because I have. I have a question about enlarging the hexagons please. Should I see it with right sides facing in or out. You can seam it with the right sides facing out.
Moogly has a great video tutorial if you need extra help. Has anyone done this with Caron cakes? I think people are just starting from the same color in two different cakes when making each of the hexagons. This is my first time making a sweater. My first hexagon looks like a boot. Is there supposed to be 6 granny squares in the center.
I want to make sure it is right before I continue. Congrats on making a sweater! To achieve this, start out with 6 little granny clusters at the beginning because those will eventually form your 6 sides. About how much yarn did you have leftover in all the colours when you finished this sweater? I am thinking of making this in one colour or with a variegated yarn, so wondering how many yards I would need?
Hoping to cut down on cost a little! In a size small Thanks! Gosh, Val, I wish I could remember better. I totally understand your desire to just buy what you need. I believe I had the most leftover of the Cafe Au Lait color. There are 4 clusters from the shoulder seams. Do I now attach to the hood m? Then do the border? Would like to make a matching one for my 10 year old. Ever try for a child?
Maybe a size Any suggestions to make this work for her? You can keep trying it on her as you go to see when the hexagon is about the right size to cover her shoulder and meet in the middle of her back. From there, you can follow most of the pattern pretty similarly, with just adjusting the hood to be smaller for her 10 yr old head. I want to make this with a different stitch, rather than granny square…..
Can you assist me? I got the whole sweater done and everything was fine but the woman says the sleeves are too wide. She says they look wider than the picture. The thought of unraveling the whole thing is more than I can bear to think about. Thanks so much for any suggestions you might have to salvage the sweater. I spend a lot of time on it. I made the sweater in a large and the woman is now complaining that the sleeves are too wide.
Do you have any magic tips to make the sleeves smaller even when the sweater is already all sewn together? I broke down and cried earlier!! That sounds so frustrating. Maybe someone could correct the pattern instructions on the websites that this pattern has been posted? Now I have to rip it all out and start over. Where do you end for the head?
If I stitch one arm at a time do I leave any part of the back undone? You seam the entire top shoulder edges so the complete hexagon sides. I recommend spreading the increased number of rounds over all your color choices or at least the first two, as I was left with an unbalanced look with way to much of color A. It sits unfinished now as I am deciding whether to frog it all and start over.
Thanks for the pattern! I love this pattern and will be trying it in the next week or so. Roughly how long did this take you to make? My best guess is about a week and a half, working on it for an hour to two or three hours a day. I love the campfire cardigan, but i am fairly new at crochet and need a tutorial, so do you have any idea when you will put one out?
My question is, in the photos are you wearing one in which you tapered the sleeves or were these the regular sleeves?
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